My friend Matthew Jacob sent me this NPR article about the art of the open-face sandwich, of which the Danish people are pros. They all look amazing, especially the smoked salmon cakes will dill & remoulade. Definitely going to make one or two of these soon.

Today was a rough Monday for everyone at the house. Rough days at work, frustrations at home and a whole segment of flattened fence that needed to be repaired before the dog ran away again… Oh life sometimes.

While everyone else was outside on the fence construction crew, I set out to make something for dinner that might cheer things up a bit. Fridge and pantry were kinda sad and I was missing crucial ingredients for every dish that come to my mind. I boiled some pasta and resigned myself to the idea that dinner might end up like the rest of the day.

And then I decided to retry something I haven’t tried in a year or more: béchamel sauce. The first time I attempted it, it never thickened. It’s probably one of the simplest sauces—one of the mother sauces of French cuisine—and somehow it had beat me. I decided to give it another go this evening, mostly because I knew for sure I had all the ingredients. I started with Mario Batali’s classic recipe, then modified it by adding a cup of different cheeses I had on hand when it was done (Mozzarella, Smoked Fontina & Provolone). Success! The sauce came together perfect. I’m really not sure what happened last time, but this time it was awesome. I served it atop some mini bow-ties & fixed a small side salad. It was a simple dinner & a small culinary success, but everyone seemed happier after dinner. It really is the little things, I suppose…

Béchamel Sauce by Mario Batali
5 tbsp. butter
4 tbsp. all-purpose flour
4 c. milk
2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

Meanwhile, heat the milk in a separate pan until just about to boil. Add the hot milk to the butter mixture 1 cup at a time, whisking continuously until very smooth. Bring to a boil. Cook 10 minutes, stirring constantly, then remove from heat. Season with salt and nutmeg, and set aside until ready to use.

On Monday I promised to post the recipe for the amazing polenta I cooked to accompany the chicken in milk dish. Polenta is pretty straightforward; the preparation steps and basic ingredients stay the same with a rotating cast of accoutrements like wilted arugula, parmesan, and heavy cream. Emeril’s take on it is quite simple, which makes this a nice accompaniment to a really flavorful main dish. This polenta is: creamy and rich. This polenta is not: good for saving. Unless you’re serving a lot of people, I recommend cutting this recipe in half because it doesn’t reheat very well the next day. The recipe says it serves 4, but that is really generous. It’s more like 6 or 7! Unless you want to just eat this for dinner, which isn’t such a bad idea actually…

Creamy Polenta fromEmeril Lagasse

4 c. water, plus more as needed
4 c. milk, plus more as needed
3 tbsp. butter
2 tsp. salt
2 c. polenta
1/2 c. creme fraiche
1/3 c. Parmigiano-Reggiano

In a large saucepan, bring the water, milk and butter to a boil. Add 2 teaspoons of salt to the water and whisk in the polenta. Whisk constantly for 3 to 4 minutes to prevent lumps. Simmer for 45 minutes, partially covered and stirring every 10 minutes, until the polenta is thick, smooth, and creamy. Add the creme fraiche and Parmesan. Check for seasoning and adjust consistency by adding milk or water to the polenta. Polenta may be made up to 20 minutes ahead of time and kept covered until ready to serve.

The recipe sounds a little strange and the picture doesn’t do it justice, but this is the BEST chicken recipe. I was looking for something special to cook for a little romantic dinner and remembered that a couple months ago my friend Holly made this for her husband. She’s a vegetarian, but she said that her husband absolutely loved it. I gave it a whirl and was equally enamored. Roast chicken with sage, lemon, cinnamon… and curdled milk? But trust me, it’s delicious. And even though it does take a little time in the oven, it was really simple to make. I liked the fact that it didn’t require a really long grocery list, which is nice for a weeknight dinner.

I’ve included the original Jamie Oliver recipe, but have to admit that I improvised a little. Instead of cooking a whole chicken, (I asked for boneless breasts with the skin on. I am still a little wimpy when it comes to dealing with meat.) No one noticed or cared though Since I didn’t use a whole chicken, the cook time was a little less. Using a dutch oven, I browned the skin stovetop and then moved the whole thing into the oven. At the same temp, it took about an hour. I also took the skin off the garlic. It probably wouldn’t have hurt anything, but I didn’t want the skins junking up the dish.

I served this with roasted parsnips and a really creamy, decadent polenta. I’ll post the recipe for that this week too!

Chicken in Milk from Jamie Oliver

1 (3 pound) organic chicken
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 oz. (1 stick) butter
1/2 cinnamon stick
1 good handful fresh sage, leaves picked
2 lemons, zested
6 garlic cloves, skin left on
1 pint milk

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F and find a snug-fitting pot for the chicken. Season it generously all over with salt and pepper, and fry it in the butter, turning the chicken to get an even color all over, until golden. Remove from the heat, put the chicken on a plate, and throw away the butter left in the pot. This will leave you with tasty sticky goodness at the bottom of the pan, which will give you a lovely caramel flavor later on. Put your chicken back in the pot with the rest of the ingredients, and cook in the preheated oven for 1 1/2 hours. Baste with the cooking juice when you remember. The lemon zest will sort of split the milk, making a sauce, which is absolutely fantastic.
To serve, pull the meat off the bones and divide it on to your plates. Spoon over plenty of juice and the little curds. Serve with wilted spinach or greens and some mashed potato.

I’ve been obsessed with making short films recently. It’s my new favorite thing. So when we heard about Deep Eddy, a brand new sweet tea vodka from Austin, I decided to make a movie about it.

[Click here iPads and iPad minis]

The recipes are featured are straight from Deep Eddy’s repertoire. Want to try it yourself? Right now it’s available for purchase at Centennial, Majestic, and Goody Goody liquor stores in Dallas.

(If you like this watch my first movie about a sandwich.)

My sister Jen is arguably one of the best bakers in Dallas. I’m biased, but I’m also the boss of this blog so that ruling stands. We were really happy and excited when she agreed to do a guest post, mostly because we got to eat what she baked: S’mores Pie…

Some people claim that the first day of Summer is the “Summer Solstice,” a day in June with the longest period of daylight and shortest period of night. This year it’s June 21, for those of us in the Northern Hemisphere. In the Southern H.? Who even knows. Regardless, this all sounds like a load of celestial frippery. Summer is clearly rolling hard by June 21. Right now kids are out of school, grills are being put to service, temperatures are almost hitting the 100s. It’s on!

To celebrate the (unofficial) beginning of the season, I recently made a wonderful desert that reworks one of the most treasured summer foods, s’mores, into a pie. Pie! I’m pretty sure most people have good memories associated with this classic camp-side staple. I personally remember many vacations to California when a day full of swimming and grilling at the beach would be topped off by several rounds of s’mores by the fire pit. Deeeelicious.

Unfortunately, the magic of s’mores seems to fade in any type of indoor setting. Like cotton candy from the grocery store or Project Runway on Lifetime, somethin’ ain’t right. Microwaves or those little gel flame burners just don’t cut it. I thought I would just wait, as usual, until the right outdoor event to enjoy some of the gooey marshmallow madness. But when my friend Deirdre sent me a link to this recipe, via the ever lovely Smitten Kitchen, I was jazzed! All the elements of a s’more but remixed, in a distinctively indoor-friendly creation.

I followed the recipe exactly (unusual for me!) and used Ghirardelli 60% Cacao Bittersweet Chips for some quality chocolate action. The marshmallow topping is fun, I’ve made homemade marshmallows before so I knew the drill, but even if you haven’t it’s super easy. The whole process took a while because there are many steps where the pie needs to chill or rest or something, but everything was pretty simple. The result – ridiculous. Rich and creamy, the decadent chocolate layer balancing perfectly with the sweet and toasty (and slightly crispy – just like camp-side!) marshmallow top. The whole thing disappeared in a flash. Will definitely make again, any season, and I highly encourage you to do the same.

One note of caution: watch out when this thing is in the oven for the final broil. Like a marshmallow dangling over flame on its coat-hanger spit, this baby can get toasty very fast. In fact, I think using a torch would be advisable if you are nervous and want a little more control over the toastiness of the topping.

S’more Pie

(Adapted from Gourmet, November 2006)

[Alternately: Brown the topping with a creme brulee torch, or preferably a decent propane torch.]
Note: Pie (before browning topping) can be chilled up to 1 day.

Even though it’s out of step with the season to be roasting root vegetables, I was inspired by this NY Times article to make roasted radishes in a bagna cauda sauce. Radishes are great, perhaps even more so after they’ve been roasted. It takes all the sassy bite out and leaves them sweet and mellow. According to the NY Times, they’re becoming pretty popular around the Big Apple now. In the article, Melissa Clark mentions a dinner party where they were served to her “slathered in an anchovy-and-garlic-laden bagna cauda sauce.” A what?

While researching bagna cauda, the first thing I noticed is how simple the ingredients are. I also realized how serious people get about which ingredients you should use to make the most authentic bagna cauda. It’s got a long history which originates from the Piedmont region of Italy. Peasants would make it and use it as a dip for bread or vegetables. It’s typically kept over a low heat when served, basically like fondue.

Fast forward a bunch of years and you’ve got hot-shot chefs like Michael Chiarello adding pepper flakes and listing anchovies as optional. (Both of these are apparently infuriating. One of the recipe comments mentions their grandfather rolling in his grave.)

Other recipes recommend using a pint of heavy cream, which was sort of terrifying to me because of the calorie count. To my relief, I found more comments online challenging the authenticity of this version. Happy to drop the cream, I found that most of the “respected” recipes for bagna cauda include both olive oil and butter at about a 1/1 ratio.

I whipped it up really quickly and instead of dipping the radishes into the sauce, I coated them with it while roasting and then put a little more on top at the end. (I threw in some potatoes to roast as well. Why not?) The sauce had an excellent flavor—rich, garlicky, and salty. The only thing that bothers me is that I’m not sure if I did it correctly. The recipe talks about the sauce being “creamy.” However that didn’t happen for me. In the sauce pan it stayed the consistency of oil and melted butter. Really, really thin. Part of me wonders how people would ever use this as a dipping sauce. Another part of me feels like it must be that way because this recipe is so simple. There’s not many ways to mess it up. Weird things happen though… Does anyone know about bagna cauda and how it should look?

Bagna Cauda (from Nigella Lawson)

1/2 c. plus 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
4 to 5 cloves garlic, peeled and microplaned or minced
12 anchovies preserved in olive oil, drained and chopped
1/3 to 1/2 cc. unsalted butter, cut into chunks
A variety of raw vegetables, including fennel, cauliflower, Belgian endive, sweet peppers and zucchini (for dipping)

Put the oil in a pan with the garlic and anchovies and cook over low heat, stirring, until you have a melted, muddy mess. Everything should begin to meld together. Whisk in 6 tablespoons of butter, and as soon as it has melted, remove from the heat and give a few more beats of your whisk so that everything is creamy and amalgamated. Taste, and if you feel you want this as a dipping sauce – which is meant to be pungent but not acrid. If you want the sauce a little more mellow, whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Pour into a dish that, ideally, fits over a flame so that it does not get cold at the table. Dip in the crudites and eat.

Matthew Jacob has been helping the little dish behind the scenes for a while now—especially on the redesign. While he’s an art director by day, he’s also a great cook, a dabbler in “culinary projects” like baking sourdough or curing bacon, and a great resource for all knowledge related to kitchen tools. I’ve been encouraging him to be a contributer and he’s finally decided to do it. Here he is, putting stuff in jars as he is apt to do….

Pickling is one of those things often not talked about, taken for granted, and even forgotten. That is until you are handed a beautifully dressed plate and there they are on top. From a slow-roasted barbecue taco to a spruce-up version of a side salad, their versatility is unmatched. Much like an embroidered “Mama Knows Best” kitchen plaque, they add a nice tang or sweetness. It’s a flavor only vinegar and sugar can produce.

Often bought at the store, we overlook how easy they are to produce. Quick pickling, the art of fusing a vegetable with a brine is nothing more than baby steps. The rookie cook can produce these and add new flavor into their (sometimes lackluster) creations. People will be thinking you are a pro in now time.

The recipe I used for the brine was adopted by one from Alton Brown.

Pickled Red Onions

3/4 c. white vinegar
2 tbsp. sugar
2 bay leaves
4-6 whole allspice berries
4-6 cloves
1 large red onion, peeled and sliced.

*Disclosure: I have had batches stay fresh for much longer kept cold in the refrigerator, but for safety reasons we are recommending a week or so.

When we get together to have a little dish meeting, it’s not always guaranteed we’re going to talk about the little dish. Sometimes we might end up just watching Treme or playing on our laptops. Productive or not, a little dish meeting is always an excellent reason to cook.

Last week I was in the mood for some Asian flavor and decided to cook us Vietnamese Steak Sandwiches (another recipe from Everyday Food) and an Asian Cucumber Salad. Both were pretty easy to whip together and I was particularly impressed with how quickly the meat took on the flavor of the marinade. (It only soaked in it for one hour.) Matt cooked the steak because I’m not so great with grilling. Medium rare and thinly sliced, the steak was piled on a baguette and then topped with fresh carrots, scallions, and cilantro dressed in a sweet and spicy garlic vinaigrette. Amazing. My only critique was that I wish I had made more of the vinaigrette because it added so much flavor.

The accompanying Asian Sesame-Cucumber Salad was something I found on chow.com while looking for a Asian-inspired side. One of the comments mentioned that the sesame oil was overwhelming so instead of the full two tablespoons, I added about one and a half. I think that was the perfect amount, although it’s an easy fix to add more if you prefer it full force. It’s an excellent side for this sandwich because it’s light and tangy, but I would really like to eat it all by itself as a snack. It’s addictive. Make it. You’ll like it.

Recipe for the flank steak in the sandwich is first, then the actual sandwich recipe. Last is the salad. Enjoy!

Flank Steak with Lime Marinade (from Everyday Food)

1/3 c. (about 4 limes) freshly squeezed lime juice
2 tbsp. soy sauce
2 scallions (about 1/3 c.), thinly sliced
2 tbsp. minced, peeled fresh ginger
1/2 tsp. red-pepper flakes
1 1/2 lbs flank steak
Vegetable oil, for grates
Coarse salt and ground black pepper

Heat grill to high; lightly oil grates. Remove steak from marinade, letting excess drip off (discard marinade); season with salt and black pepper. Place on grill; cover. Cook, turning once, until meat reaches desired doneness, 6 to 8 minutes for medium-rare. Let rest 10 minutes before slicing thinly.

Vietnamese Steak Sandwiches (also from Everyday Food)

1 garlic clove, minced
1 tsp. sugar
1/4 tsp. red-pepper flakes
1 tbsp. rice vinegar
1 tbsp. water
2 carrots, grated
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1/2 c. packed fresh cilantro leaves
4 hero rolls
1 lb. sliced flank steak with lime marinade

Split and lightly toast hero rolls; dividing evenly, layer with carrot mixture and sliced flank steak. Drizzle with remaining vinegar mixture, if desired.

Asian Sesame-Cucumber Salad (from chow.com)

3 cucumbers, peeled and seeded
1 tbsp. kosher salt
2 tbsp. white sesame seeds
2 tbsp. rice wine vinegar
2 tbsp. toasted sesame oil
1/2 tsp. sugar
1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

Rinse the cucumber slices thoroughly under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Toss the cucumbers with the dressing and toasted sesame seeds and serve.

One of my best friends, Matthew, recently moved into a swanky loft with high ceilings, concrete floors, an open kitchen—the whole deal. He’s started a tradition of Sunday night dinners at his new place where everyone is invited to come over, have a few drinks & enjoy whatever’s on his menu de jour. The past few weeks he’s hosted, it’s been a really lovely way to end the week & gear up for the one ahead.

Last night he made an amazing dish from Keller’s ad hoc at home: crispy braised chicken thighs with olives, lemon & fennel. By the time we arrived, Matt had already finished most of the cooking, but there were a few sous chef duties to be done. With the open space, cooking & visiting is effortless. So we finished chopping butternut squash (to roast as a sidedish), added the final seasonings to the sauce & poured drinks. The meal was superb. The meat was so tender it fell of the bone & the skin was perfectly crisped. Served in a white wine sauce with sauteed fennel, garlic, olives & onion—it was a brilliant introduction to what Keller’s book has to offer. And while we were all eating the meal together among family & friends, I thought about how Keller would probably be very proud. It was the philosophy behind his family-style cookbook actually lived out & enjoyed the way he intended it to be. Print this out & make it with your family & friends. Like, now.

Crispy Braised Chicken Thighs with Olives, Lemon & Fennel

3 fennel bulbs
12 chicken thighs
Kosher salt
Canola oil
1 c. coarsely chopped onion
1 tbs. finely chopped garlic
1/4 c. dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
1 c. Ascolane or other large green olives, such as Cerignola
1/4 tsp. red pepper flakes
4 fresh (or 2 dried) bay leaves
4 strips lemon zest (removed with a vegetable peeler)
8 thyme sprigs
1 c. chicken stock
1/3 c. flat-leaf parsley leaves

Turn on the broiler, and put the pan under the broiler for a minute or two to crisp and brown the chicken skin. Remove from the oven, and transfer to a serving platter. Garnish with the parsley leaves.